The Guardian - Travel • Feb. 1, 2026, 7:15 a.m.

From a bioluminescent nightime sea to rare wildlife, natural wonders are on tap in the Gothenburg archipelago Out on the water, paddling across the straits between two small rocky islands, the dusk fades and the stars appear. Jennie has done her best to coach me in local geography before darkness, showing me the map with its patchwork of islands and bays, and describing the shape of each landmark.

All to no avail. I’m more than happy to be lost at sea, leaning back in my kayak to gaze at the constellations, occasionally checking that the red light on the stern of her kayak is still visible ahead.

We stop in the sheltered lee of an island and hear a hoot. “Eurasian eagle owl,” says Jennie.

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